Sabyasachi’s 25th Anniversary Runway Show: A Star-Studded Evening of Elegance and Opulence

On a glamorous Saturday evening, the Jio World Center in Mumbai transformed into the ultimate fashion haven as legendary Indian designer Sabyasachi Mukherjee hosted a star-studded 25th anniversary runway show. Guests from across India and the world filled the venue, camera phones ready to capture the spectacle that was about to unfold. A hush descended as the doors opened, setting the stage for one of the most highly anticipated fashion events of the year.

A Grand Celebration of Craftsmanship and Creativity

Sabyasachi Mukherjee, known for his signature maximalist Indian style, showcased an unforgettable collection that embodied the rich heritage of Indian fashion with a contemporary twist. For the past 25 years, Mukherjee has been a trailblazer in the industry, dressing some of the most iconic names in Bollywood and Hollywood, from Priyanka Chopra and Deepika Padukone to Oprah Winfrey, Rihanna, and Jennifer Lopez. His work is celebrated for its intricate craftsmanship, rich textiles, and lavish embellishments, all of which were on full display during this landmark runway show.

The evening was not only a celebration of fashion but a tribute to Sabyasachi’s journey as a designer, and the collection reflected his enduring influence on the global fashion scene.

Opening the Show: Deepika Padukone in an All-White Ensemble

As the first model graced the runway, the audience was treated to the unmistakable elegance of Deepika Padukone, the Bollywood superstar known for her poised presence both on and off the screen. Deepika opened the show in an exquisite all-white ensemble that perfectly blended traditional Indian craftsmanship with modern sensibilities. The ensemble was adorned with intricate necklaces, including a striking crucifix from Sabyasachi’s jewelry line, which added a layer of spiritual elegance to the look. Deepika’s entrance marked the beginning of what was to be a breathtaking showcase of luxury and creativity.

The Grand Finale: A Legendary Walk with Christy Turlington

The excitement reached a crescendo as Deepika returned to the runway for the grand finale, accompanied by none other than supermodel Christy Turlington. Together, they strutted down the catwalk, radiating confidence and grace. Christy, a fashion icon with decades of experience, perfectly complemented Deepika, creating a moment of undeniable glamour and power. The grand finale was a stunning visual representation of Sabyasachi’s ability to blend the timeless with the modern, showcasing a fusion of two global fashion icons, both known for their poise and unparalleled beauty.

A Night to Remember

As the show concluded, the audience erupted into applause, acknowledging the visionary work of Sabyasachi Mukherjee and the stars who graced the runway. The evening was a testament to the designer’s journey, his extraordinary craftsmanship, and his ability to unite the world of Bollywood, Hollywood, and international fashion on one stage. The 25th anniversary runway show was not just a fashion event, but a celebration of the artistry and influence of one of India’s most celebrated designers.

With the presence of global superstars like Deepika Padukone and Christy Turlington, Sabyasachi’s 25th-anniversary show was truly a visual spectacle that will be remembered for years to come. The world of fashion witnessed a perfect blend of culture, craftsmanship, and creativity — all in a single, unforgettable evening.

A Medley of Contrasts: Sabyasachi’s 25th Anniversary Runway Show

Sabyasachi Mukherjee’s 25th anniversary runway show was a true celebration of contrasts, blending a stunning mix of colors, textures, and exquisite techniques that defined the evening’s breathtaking visual journey. The label described the collection as “a medley of contrasts,” expertly weaving together elements of tradition and modernity, opulence and simplicity, lightness and heaviness — all to showcase the designer’s mastery over craft and his ability to create something timeless yet innovative.

Colors and Textures that Captivate

The collection was a riot of vibrant hues and intricate textures, each piece more mesmerizing than the last. Sabyasachi, known for his maximalist approach to design, showcased his signature use of rich, opulent fabrics like velvet, silk, and brocade, paired with unexpected details that created a sense of intrigue and surprise. The interplay of colors, from jewel tones to metallics, added depth and dimension to the collection. Embellishments like delicate beadwork, fine embroidery, and intricate zari work highlighted the designer’s unparalleled attention to detail and his commitment to celebrating Indian craftsmanship.

Exquisite Technique and Craftsmanship

At the heart of the show was Sabyasachi’s signature craftsmanship — an exquisite display of handwork that brought together the finest artisanship from across India. Every garment was a testament to the designer’s dedication to preserving traditional techniques while pushing the boundaries of modern fashion. The use of gold thread, fine lacework, and intricate bead detailing added layers of richness, each technique telling its own story of Indian heritage.

The Influence of Dolly Devi

The show also featured the mesmerizing influence of Dolly Devi, whose traditional techniques and craftsmanship have inspired Sabyasachi’s work for years. Dolly Devi, known for her mastery of Indian handwork and textiles, played a pivotal role in shaping the intricate designs featured on the runway. Her expertise and artistry were visible in every stitch, and her influence was a fitting homage to the traditions that continue to guide Sabyasachi’s work.

A Seamless Fusion of Tradition and Innovation

Ultimately, the runway show was a visual feast, embodying the perfect balance between old-world craftsmanship and modern design sensibilities. From the bold color contrasts to the exquisite technique, Sabyasachi’s 25th-anniversary collection was a medley of contrasts that left a lasting impression on all who witnessed it. It was a show that celebrated the art of fashion and the beauty of Indian craftsmanship, presented through the lens of a visionary designer whose work continues to define global fashion.

Sabyasachi’s 25th Anniversary Show: A Tribute to Iconic Women in History

Sabyasachi Mukherjee’s 25th-anniversary runway show was not just a display of his signature maximalist style, but also a powerful homage to some of the most iconic women in history. The new collection, which captured the essence of strength, beauty, and individuality, drew inspiration from trailblazing women like Frida Kahlo, Madonna, and Coco Chanel — each of whom has left an indelible mark on art, fashion, and culture.

Frida Kahlo: A Celebration of Boldness and Resilience

Frida Kahlo’s fearless embrace of her identity and her ability to express her personal pain and triumphs through art became a central inspiration for the collection. Sabyasachi channeled Kahlo’s vivid use of color, intricate embroidery, and symbolic motifs into designs that were both bold and introspective. The collection featured rich, vibrant tones and striking florals, reminiscent of the iconic Mexican artist’s works. Like Kahlo’s art, the garments evoked a sense of strength, defiance, and individuality — qualities that have made the artist an enduring symbol of empowerment for women around the world.

Madonna: Rebellion and Relevance

Madonna, the Queen of Pop, is known for her ever-evolving style and her ability to challenge societal norms while remaining relevant across decades. For Sabyasachi, Madonna’s iconic influence provided the perfect inspiration for a collection that balances timeless elegance with modern edge. The designs incorporated bold shapes, dramatic silhouettes, and edgy details like metallic finishes and daring cuts. Madonna’s fearless attitude was reflected in the collection’s daring use of fabrics, textures, and unconventional elements that challenged traditional notions of beauty and femininity.

Coco Chanel: Timeless Elegance and Refinement

Coco Chanel, one of fashion’s most enduring figures, was another major inspiration behind the collection. Known for revolutionizing women’s fashion with her chic, minimalist approach, Chanel’s influence was felt through Sabyasachi’s use of structured tailoring, classic black-and-white palettes, and luxurious fabrics like tweed and silk. Chanel’s spirit of sophistication and her ability to make timeless designs look effortlessly chic were beautifully embodied in the show’s creations. From refined silhouettes to exquisite detailing, each piece honored Chanel’s legacy of elevating the everyday into something extraordinary.

The Influence of Dolly Devi: Crafting a Legacy

Alongside these iconic women, Dolly Devi’s craftsmanship played a crucial role in the collection. Dolly Devi’s artistry and knowledge of traditional handwork were seamlessly woven into the designs, adding layers of depth to the garments. Her influence helped bring to life the intricate detailing, exquisite embroidery, and luxurious textures that formed the foundation of Sabyasachi’s work. Her expertise in handcrafting textiles played a pivotal role in translating the essence of these legendary women into wearable art.

A Fashion Tribute to Iconic Women

In this landmark 25th-anniversary show, Sabyasachi not only celebrated his own journey as a designer but also honored the legacies of powerful women who have shaped history and fashion. Drawing inspiration from Frida Kahlo, Madonna, and Coco Chanel, the collection was a vibrant and daring tribute to the qualities these icons embodied: strength, rebellion, and timeless elegance. Each piece was a homage to the lasting impact these women continue to have on the world, making the show not only a fashion event but a celebration of women’s empowerment through the art of design.

A Close-Up of Craftsmanship: The Rich Detail and Textures of Sabyasachi’s Latest Collection

In a stunning close-up shot, the intricate craftsmanship of Sabyasachi Mukherjee’s latest collection is brought to life, showcasing the rich detail and textures that define his design philosophy. Every stitch, bead, and fabric choice speaks to the designer’s unparalleled commitment to quality and his reverence for Indian artistry.

The garment, bathed in the soft glow of the runway lights, reveals layers of luxurious fabrics — from opulent silk and velvet to delicate lace and embroidered netting. Each element is meticulously handcrafted, with intricate zari and threadwork that create mesmerizing patterns and textures. The detailing on the garment is nothing short of breathtaking, highlighting Sabyasachi’s signature maximalist approach.

The richness of the fabric is complemented by fine embellishments, such as delicate beadwork, intricate motifs, and hand-embroidered florals, which add a layer of depth and sophistication. The textural contrast between smooth, flowing silk and structured, embellished areas creates a dynamic visual experience, capturing the essence of timeless luxury.

At the heart of the design lies Dolly Devi’s craftsmanship, which infuses every garment with traditional Indian handwork that has been passed down through generations. Her delicate embroidery techniques — visible in the fine threadwork and bead embellishments — add a layer of storytelling to each piece. The precise hand-stitching creates a sense of intimacy and authenticity, while the vibrant hues of the fabric celebrate the richness of India’s textile heritage.

This close-up shot captures the essence of what makes Sabyasachi’s work so extraordinary: an unwavering commitment to excellence, a passion for preserving tradition, and a deep respect for the artisans who bring each garment to life. The richness of the textures, combined with the meticulous detailing, ensures that every piece in the collection tells a story of luxury, artistry, and craftsmanship that is unparalleled in the world of fashion.

The collection showcased over 150 striking looks, including pants and skirts adorned with intricate gold thread embroidery, frilled headgear, stacked jewelry, and tops emblazoned with bold slogans such as “cat lady,” “table for one,” “where has love gone,” and “all dressed up nowhere to go.”

In a phone interview, Mukherjee explained that the pieces were crafted as a satirical commentary on the growing impact of technology on human relationships. He expressed concern that, in the digital age, we have lost the ability to truly connect with one another. “We seem to have forgotten how to establish human relationships,” Mukherjee stated, underscoring his belief that technology’s influence has left many feeling isolated despite being more “connected” than ever. The collection served as both a visual statement and a call for introspection on the value of genuine human interaction in a world increasingly dominated by technology.

The collection also included trench coats, sweaters, shorts, and shirts, crafted in more conventionally Western silhouettes. This marked a notable departure from Mukherjee’s usual focus on festive and bridal wear, which typically leans heavily towards traditional Indian styles, such as saris, ghagra cholis, and sherwanis.

However, even with this shift in silhouette, the collection was far from understated. It continued to embrace drama and opulence, featuring heavily embroidered jackets adorned with semi-precious stones, luxurious brocade dresses, ostrich leather jackets and skirts, as well as blouses with velvet appliqués layered with faux fur. These pieces combined a bold mix of textures and embellishments, bridging Eastern and Western influences while maintaining Mukherjee’s signature flair for high-impact fashion.

Kolkata roots

Born in Calcutta (now Kolkata), Mukherjee is one of the most sought-after Indian designers, with a prominent presence both in India and internationally. He has established stores in Mumbai, Delhi, and Kolkata, and in 2022, he expanded his reach by opening his first international store in New York. Despite his global success, Mukherjee remains deeply connected to his West Bengal roots, which continue to influence his design aesthetic. His latest runway collection was inspired by his home city, Kolkata—renowned for its rich history, art, architecture, and its deep-seated culture of art and literature appreciation.

For the event, guests were asked to dress in black, adhering to the dress code. Among the attendees were notable figures such as actors Alia Bhatt and Rani Mukherji, and industrialist Kumar Mangalam Birla, who were captivated by the venue’s unique ambiance. The space featured colonial pillars, stained glass windows, and blue arched doors, recreating the charm of an old, reimagined neighborhood of Kolkata. Guests marveled at the setting, filming and admiring the fusion of historical and contemporary elements that reflected the essence of the city.

Mukherjee shared with CNN that Kolkata served as his “ultimate and silent inspiration,” alongside the nuances of everyday life. He described the city as “a city of patina,” where the most grandiose buildings stand in contrast to the inevitable decay around them. He reflected on how the city holds the juxtaposition of the vibrant stories from the notorious red-light area of Sonagachi, the powerful figures of the pimps in Kamathipura, and the lively scenes of marigolds in Mallick Ghat, all coexisting beneath the watchful eyes of Goddess Kali. For Mukherjee, Kolkata encapsulates a unique blend of contrasts and complexities.

The runway show commenced with songs in Mukherjee’s mother tongue, Bengali, composed, written, and sung by famous Bengali musicians, including the legendary Nobel Prize laureate Rabindranath Tagore. Tagore, who was awarded the Nobel for Literature in 1913, was the first non-European writer to receive the prestigious honor.

Mukherjee expressed that, as a Bengali, he had been immersed in a blend of “hedonism with the sophistication of culture” throughout his life, a fusion that greatly influenced his creative journey. “This is the environment I grew up in. It has shaped my consciousness,” he said, highlighting how Kolkata’s dynamic and layered culture continues to resonate in his work.

Building ‘India’s first global luxury brand’

Looking to the future, Mukherjee shared his plans to broaden his company’s footprint in the United States by forming partnerships with major retail outlets. Additionally, he intends to introduce a line of fragrances and beauty products, expanding his brand beyond fashion. Mukherjee also envisions designing more ready-to-wear collections and jewelry, with a focus on “adapting heritage practices dynamically to remain relevant for contemporary lifestyles,” as stated in a brand press release.

“We have pressed reset,” he remarked, reflecting on his ambition to move beyond the bridal wear that has made him so famous. He pointed out that much of the traditional crafts consumed in India are linked to weddings. India’s wedding industry is valued at around $130 billion, but Mukherjee predicts that this will soon change.

“Most of the crafts we (Indians) consume are because of weddings,” he said, adding that young people today are shifting their priorities. “Now, young people would rather spend money on experiences,” he emphasized, acknowledging a growing cultural shift away from the traditional focus on lavish wedding expenditures in favor of more experiential investments.

In a press release, Mukherjee boldly stated, “We firmly believe India is not a third-world economy but a first-world civilization. It is the birthplace of luxury, where it has always belonged. Together, we will create India’s first global luxury brand.” This statement reflects his deep conviction in India’s rich cultural and historical legacy, positioning the country as a natural origin for luxury and high-end craftsmanship. Mukherjee’s vision is to elevate India’s status on the global luxury stage, harnessing the nation’s heritage and potential to build a world-renowned brand.

The brand has expanded into “an army” of 3,000 artisans and employees across India, showcasing the scale of its operations and its commitment to local craftsmanship. Additionally, it collaborates with craftspeople from around the world, bringing diverse global influences to its creations. This international approach, combined with a strong base of local artisans, allows Mukherjee’s brand to produce exquisite, culturally rich designs while fostering global craftsmanship partnerships.

Padukone and Turlington were pictured during the show’s grand finale, adding a star-studded touch to the event. Their presence highlighted the global appeal of Mukherjee’s designs, with these iconic figures further elevating the showcase. As prominent personalities in the fashion world, their participation underscored the significance of the show, leaving a lasting impression on both the audience and the industry.

Mukherjee, dressed in jeans and a black top featuring Sabyasachi’s logo with a Royal Bengal Tiger, took a bow alongside Padukone and Turlington during the show’s grand finale. As a Bengali version of the hymn “We Shall Overcome” played, the crowd erupted in a standing ovation. The lyrics, however, were unique: “One day the light of the sun, one day the light of our dreams, one day the light of truth shall shine. Deep in our hearts, we hold the belief; the light of the truth will shine.”

This powerful rendition of the hymn captured the essence of Mukherjee’s philosophy—one that centers on the enduring importance of truth and light in an ever-changing world. As he reflected, “Humanity, after all, is the biggest luxury today,” emphasizing the value of connection, empathy, and authenticity in a society increasingly driven by material wealth and technology. His closing statement, like the collection itself, was a poignant reminder of what truly matters in life.

Courtesy: ANI News

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